Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Pork as a Condiment with Kale and Tofu


The NY Times has a great series of articles about the global business of food. It seems to be on everyone’s mind, the higher prices of food these days. I’m lucky to live in a town that has a lot of competition. Between the Farmer’s markets and Chinatown, I’m able to get great food for great prices.
Monday I had no food in my fridge, so the first thing I did was go down to Union Square to see what’s new for spring. I saw some nice asparagus, but I felt like I needed more hardcore roughage. I needed kale. Kale is great because it’s healthy, lasts for at least a week and cheap. I got a big bunch for $2.50.
Then to Chinatown for some pork—I was thinking about how greens used to be cooked with some fatty piece of pig but now most restaurants used smoked turkey because it’s healthier. I felt lazy and always frugal, so I thought it would be yummy to get some roasted pork from any one of the hanging pigs in the Chinatown vendors. I bought a plastic dish full of mixed pork for only $3.50 at the Deluxe Market. I love that place because you can order a pork bun for less than a buck and eat it as you walk out with your other purchases.
I saw the tofu lady’s daughter near the 6 train station south of Canal, but didn’t buy any tofu because before I went to Baltimore, I had to throw the week’s tofu into the freezer. When you freeze fresh tofu, obviously the water within the soy freezes and becomes ice. When you defrost it, the water can be squeezed out and it leaves a drier spongy product that’s good for holding sauces. My plan was to slice some of that and throw that into the kale and pork mix. The point was to use the fattier pieces of pork to lube the pan so the tofu wouldn't stick and to flavor the kale just a bit. The plan was to eat a ton of kale because it’s lower in fat and the tofu would be the main source of protein. I threw in some diced carrots, because it needed another color and I had some edamame in the freezer that needed to be used.
But man! That pork skin was so crispy and savory, especially delicious with the dipping sauce made of oil, ginger, scallions and salt that was tucked into the container. Yeah, I ate the healthy kale and tofu stir fry, but the pork was so good, I had to eat those crispy bits on the spot because later, they’d end up soggy.
So while I aimed for healthy and cheap in this meal, it became unhealthy as my will power waned. Oh well, at least this session of pigging out was cheap and I have plenty of leftovers for at least another two meals. I could even stretch it out further by cooking up some rice.

Thursday, April 24, 2008

No-Knead Bread


It's taken me a year and a half to finally bake the no knead bread recipe from the NY Times. Jim Lahey of the Sullivan Street Bakery's recipe for no knead bread ran in paper on November 8, 2006. After making the Jamie Oliver bread last week, I figured I should try what tons of bloggers say is the easiest and tastiest bread out there. Seriously, just google no knead bread and there are tons of thoughts about the process.
You start by mixing 3 cups of all purpose flour with 2 tsp. of Kosher salt and 1/3 tsp of dry active yeast. Then pour 1.5 cups of water into the mix. The recipe doesn't specify warm water, but I used it. The dough is really sticky because of all of that water, so use a spatula to mix it and then leave it for 12-20 hours. Yep. It's a long wait. Don't expect to eat the bread until the next day. at night.
Apparently all that time causes that tiny bit of yeast to create the delicious flavor and those terrific bubbles. When the first rise is up, the dough will have an almost beery odor. It's good stuff, but sticky stuff. I used parchment paper (instead of cotton towel as instructed) with a lot of flour tossed on it to prevent sticking to the counter. After watching some of the you tube videos, there are a few moves you need to make, but it's not kneading per se. It's really pulling the dough, the way Kathrine Helmond's face is stretched in the movie Brazil. Fold the stretched sections over itself a couple of times. Then prod it into a ball and wait another two to three hours. Half an hour before that second rising time is up, stick the oven proof heavy pot into the 500 degree oven. I used Ted's Le Creuset pot. I don't have a big one, but when I get home, I'm going to try using my little mini one and halving the amount of dough. Because the recipe uses so little yeast and I just bought a 5lb bag of flour, this recipe is going to save me money. I'm going to replace a cup of whole wheat flour for the white and maybe add flax or something to add more health.
The part that I messed up was plopping the dough into the pot. I had planned to just throw the dough on the parchment paper into the hot pot, but I feared the hot pot and the dough flipped itself over. The parchment was on the top instead at the bottom. So I had to peel it off, thus losing a little bit of height on the bread. I should have also put the bread it a smaller container during the second rising so that the dough would have created more height. Also, my dough was in more of a blog than a ball. Better shaping would have helped. The bread baked with the lid on for 30 minutes at 450 degrees. I only put it up to 500 in the preheat stage because I figured I'd screw around with the potting. After the half hour, remove the lid carefully, the knob on the top will be red hot, so use a pot holder! Bake for 15 to 30 more minutes. I was practicing my knot tying, so I wasn't really paying attention. It took about 30 minutes to burn it a little bit on top, so don't wait that long. The bread actually develops its crunchy crust as it cools, you can hear it crackle as the cooler air surrounds it. Do not cut into it for another half an hour. Some people report a gumminess to the dough if you don't wait. It's really worth it! I made a fantastic egg salad and cucumber sandwich with this bread. It's so good I can't wait to finish it and make another loaf.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008


Since I've been in an allergy ridden haze, I went to the library to borrow some movies to watch inside. The best find was the set of Oliver's Twist dvds. I watched all of the episodes and knew that I had to make something from that old Jamie Oliver cookbook I got ages ago when I worked at Esquire. Bread kneading is good upper arm exercise as is walking home with heavy groceries, so I skipped working out and instead bought a 5 lb bag of bread flour (2.49), 1 lb of semolina flour (2.49) and three packets of yeast (2.29) from Fairway. The Red Star active dried yeast package says that approximately 2 1/4 tsp equals one 1/4 oz packet of Red Star. Three 1/4 oz packets equal the activity of one 2 oz yeast cake. This confused me. Jamie's recipe for basic bread calls for 1 oz fresh yeast or 3/4 oz active dried yeast. So if one packet is 1/4 oz, does three packets equal 3/4 oz or since three packets equals 2 oz, should I just use one packet and then split a second in half?
I didn't know what to do, so I just used 2 packets. Then the other part that worried me is that Jamie says use just over 2 cups of tepid water. To the uneducated me, tepid means warm water, but the internet says that tepid is two parts cold water to one part boiling water. The 2 cups part was easy, but then I ended up needing more water because the first kneading resulted in a very dry crumbly dough. Jamie says not to get scared and to add more water, but I ended up adding another cup warm from the tap. It still seemed too dry, but then I didn't want it to wet. I'm not sure why because Jamie even says that it's a moist dough. I lost my confidence, even thought Jamie says in stage 8 not to lose it.
But hey! The bread turned out fine. I ended up making two loaves as there was a ton of dough, next time I'll freeze one ball of dough straight away for baking later.
Here's the recipe. Oh man. I just read the online recipe and the amounts are smaller than the book's measurements. Oh right. This internet version is from his first tv show, The Naked Chef. As is my book. Interesting that it differs, but the book calls for 1 lb of durum semolina flour in addition to the 1 lb of bread flour. Oh and it calls for 3 packets of the active dry yeast! Well, like I said the bread was fine. Now that I think about it, it might be considered a bit dense, but like my bread, so am I!